Definition of bumpsteer:
Bump-steer is a change in toe* angle caused by the
suspension
moving up or down. Bump-steer is built into the geometry
of the suspension and steering system, and has nothing
to do with turning the steering
wheel. The effect of
bump-steer is for the wheel to toe-in or toe-out when
the suspension moves up or down. This toe change or
"steering" occurs any time the suspension moves, whether
it is from body roll, brake-dive, or hitting a bump
in the road. Bump steer is undesirable because the
suspension
is steering the car instead of the driver.
Cause of bumpsteer: The front wheels do not move directly straight up or down when the car hits a bump. Instead, the wheel follows an arc, or curving
path, that pushes the wheel slightly inward (towards the centerline of the car) or outward (away from the car) in response to vertical wheel movement.
The outer tie-rod (which connects the steering rack to the wheel) also moves in-and-out in an arc as it moves up and down. If the rate which the outer
tie-rod arcs in or out does not match the rate the wheel moves in or out, the wheel will be turned by the tie-rod. This is bumpsteer.
The center point of the arc traveled by the wheel (known as the instant-center) is controlled by the location and angle of the moving
suspension links. This point moves as the ride height changes. In contrast, the arc of the outer tie-rod is controlled by the position of the steering
rack, which is fixed. In order to eliminate bumpsteer, both the length and the center point of the two arcs must be the same. However, since the
instant center moves with ride height, bumpsteer cannot be eliminated throughout the entire range of suspension travel. Therefore suspension
designers concentrate on minimizing bumpsteer within the range of movement closest to factory ride height. Changing the ride height or other suspension
components may move the suspension outside this narrow "optimized" window.
To fix a bumpsteer problem, you need to alter the height of outer tie-rod relative to the steering rack. Small changes in this relationship can be
made with offset rack bushings. Making big changes requires adjustable tie-rod ends, also known as a bumpsteer kit.
* Toe: Toe-in or Toe-out describes the alignment of the front wheels relative to each other, the same way you would describe your feet. For
example, toe-in means they are closer together at the front than the rear
BASIC INSTALLATION
Caution! Installing this product requires disassembly of some components of the steering system. If you are not confident you can complete the job
safely, have the work performed by a certified technician who is familiar with the front suspension of a Mustang. Failure to install this part
properly may lead to serious injury.
- Raise the front of the car and place it on jack stands. Consult your owner's manual for proper jacking points.
- Loosen the jam nut that locks the outer tie-rod to the inner tie rod. Do not back the nut far away from the outer tie rod. Just back it off
enough so it is not contacting the outer tie-rod.
- Remove the nut that holds the outer tie-rod to the spindle. Disconnect the tie-rod from the spindle. Tapping the side of the spindle
with a hammer will loosen the tie rod so that it falls out.
- Hold the inner tie-rod with a wrench to prevent it from spinning and unscrew the outer tie-rod until it comes completely off.
- Thread the aluminum collar of the bumpsteer kit onto the inner tie rod until it contacts the jam nut. Thread the steel rod-end (with jam nut)
into the aluminum collar until the whole assembly matches the length of the original outer tie-rod that you removed earlier. Make sure the rod-end is
threaded at least 1 inch into the aluminum collar. Tighten the jam nuts.
- Insert the tapered end of the new tie-rod stud into the spindle. Secure it with the supplied nut.
- Arrange the spacers and rod end on the straight portion of the tie-rod stud. The final adjustments will be made on an alignment rack by the
alignment shop. In the meantime, install the spacers at your "best guess" position, which you determine by trying to make the tie rod as close as
possible to parallel with the lower control arm.
- Install the nut on the bottom of the stud. Torque the bottom nut to 50 ft.-lb. and the top nut to 40 ft.-lb.
- Repeat steps 1 thru 8 on the other side of the car.
- Recheck that all nuts are tight, including the jam nuts.
- Bring the car to an alignment shop and align it according to the instructions below.
ADJUSTMENT
- Set the car on an alignment rack (with moveable tables for the front wheels) and set the toe.
- Next, compress the suspension at least 1 inch. This can be done by securing a winch ("come-along") to the floor and winching down on the front
crossmember, or by having several people sit on the front bumper. Measure the ride height with the suspension compressed. You will need to compress
the suspension to this same height again later. Read the toe at the new compressed height and again at normal ride height. Compare the two readings.
The goal is to have the smallest possible change in toe between the at-rest and compressed suspension height.
- Rearrange the spacers and repeat step 2 from above. It is basically a process of trial and error until you achieve the smallest possible
toe-change. See Tips below.
Important: compress the suspension the same amount each time so that you can compare the toe readings accurately.
Important: Make sure you compare the "at-rest "and "compressed" readings to find the toe change each time you try a different arrangement of spacers. Do
not directly compare the compressed toe readings, because the static toe will change when the spacers are rearranged. It is the toe-change due to
suspension movement you are trying to reduce, not the total toe reading. If this is confusing, start at step 1 and reset the toe to the desired
"at-rest" setting for each arrangement of spacers you try. That way the "compressed" toe readings can be compared directly.
It is often impossible to achieve absolutely zero toe-change. It is better to arrange the spacers so that the car toes-in slightly when the suspension
is compressed instead of toeing-out.
- Once the spacers are arranged in their optimum position, reset the toe to the desired setting.
Tips to help find the correct setting more quickly:
- If the stock K-member, spindle and ball joints are used, the best position is more likely to be with the rod-end at the middle to top of the
stud (more spacers at the bottom).
- If the Steeda X2 ball joint is used, the best position is most likely to be with the rod-end nearer the bottom of the stud (more spacers at
the top).
- Caster angle settings affect bump steer. Increasing caster with caster/camber plates raises the outer tie-rod. The more caster is added, the
more the spacers will be needed above the rod-end to compensate.
Another part that you might find necessary for your Mustang is a Bumpsteer kit. For those who are not privy to the term, bumpsteer means a change in
toe angle as a result of the suspension moving up or down. It is built into the suspension and steering system but has but has no relationship to the
turning of the steering wheel. What the bumpsteer does is causes the wheel to toe-in or toe-out with the upward or downward movement of the suspension.
This so-called toe-change or steering occurs at any time the suspension of the car moves whether it be because of a body roll, brake dive, and even
just hitting a bump in the road. Bumpsteer is an undesirable condition because it allows the suspension to steer the car when the driver should be
the one steering.
What does a bumpsteer kit do? It prevents the bumpsteer in your car, allowing for a smoother ride and assuring that the driver is doing the
steering instead of the suspension. The condition is caused by front wheels that do not move straight up or down when the car hits a bump, but enter
into an arc or spherical path when then pushes the wheel inward or outward slightly when vertical wheel movement occurs. The outer tie rode also tends
to move in and out in a semi-circular motion as it moves up and down. If the rate of movement by the outer tie arcs and the wheel do not match, it will
cause the wheel to be turned by the tie-rod. This condition is called bumpsteer.
What is needed in order to eliminate bumpsteer is for the length and center point of the two arcs to match. Because of the instant center's tendency to
move with ride height, it is impossible to remove bumpsteer throughout the range of suspension travel. For this reason the designers of suspensions
focus their thoughts on minimizing bumpsteer within the area closest to the factor ride height.
The purpose of the bumpsteer kit for your Ford is to correct this problem and prevent its reoccurrence. By purchasing a bumpsteer kit at your parts of
accessories store, you will the tools you need at your disposal. By doing this little bit of mechanical work, you are able to eliminate a problem that
may have the potential for causing more problems or making the bumpsteer problem much worse. As with any part for your car, be sure that you get the
highest quality product rather than trying to sacrifice quality for price. After all, you want to keep your car in topnotch condition whether it's a
Mustang, Camaro, Corvette, GTO, or Firebird. Whichever car you have or fancy, you want to make sure to keep it in perfect running condition so that
it will last you for a long time.
555-8105 - Steeda Bumpsteer Kit *with manual steering rack 1979-1993 Ford Mustang
555-8106 - Steeda Bumpsteer Kit 2005-2006 Ford Mustang
555-8103 - Steeda Bumpsteer Kit 1987-1993 Ford Mustang
555-8104 - Steeda Bumpsteer Kit 1994-2004 Ford Mustang
AUTOMOTIVE FORUM
